TARTARUGA

Leaving Strand today and heading up the West Coast a bit, we will show updates from today, but will be a slow start as we are going to spend some time in St Helena, then back to East Coast via Hopetown, Malemsbury, Franshoek, Greyton and then working our way up to Storms River mouth. From there leg 2 will be Baviaanskloof to Anysberg, and from there, still to be decided, stay tuned.

113 km Gordons bay to Atlantis to Silverstreams. We had an easy drive from Strand to Atlantis to the City of Capetown recreational offices. Unfortunately, the booking system has changed AGAIN for COCT campsites, and the website, as per usual, does not entirely reflect the truth of the current situation. For the record:- You can indeed phone the number [number removed] as given and in theory the given email also works, but, don't, you will only end up a little frustrated and much bewildered. Jennifer Fourie deals with these bookings and she handled our stuff very efficiently, her email is Jennifer.fourie@capetown.gov.za and her direct number is [number removed]. She will organise your invoice and then you have several options to pay, including Easypay credit card over internet. Keep your invoice and proof of payment on hand, you need it to check in and verify campsite number. There are 2 campsite areas, old and new, we got site 23 in the old block, any closer to the ocean and it would be a car wash. Price R189 per night with power on site, tap and bin at each site. Ablutions are miles away but it is a very picturesque site and the bay and tidal pool are beautiful, if a little cold for our KZN bodies. It is weekend, noisier than Sesheke on new years eve, doef doef doef all night long, 10h00 the next day, stil doef doef doef, thank God for removable hearing aids. Almost no cellphone signal in the camp. Facilities a little run down but functional with toilet paper supplied and hot water. The rocks on the beach and tidal pool, like all over the west coast these days, are devoid of living animals, bar some very tiny periwinkles and the odd gull and oyster catchers, the beach is scattered with a million dead and crumling black muscle shells that tell of the golden days prior to an ecological disaster

Pretty beach and tidal pool

The rocks are devoid of almost any crustacean life

A million crumling black mussel shells show what we have destroyed

Oyster catchers and gulls aplenty, lots of birdlife around the campsite

Closer and its a car wash

Beautiful show to mark the end of the day

Ganzebaai is avery pleasant looking campsite, rocky beach and even some juvenile mussel beds

We also checked out Yzerfontein which is your typical commercial coastal caravan park, and then a cruise through the west coast park via Langebaan and Vredendal to St Helena. We will be here till Thursday or so so a few days to our next update

This was yesterday's travelling, 170km sleeping at Tulbagh at Klipfontein campsite. We shifted some some travel plans as did Jacques and met up for a pleasant afternoon catch up and braai later on. The campsite is n old municipal site under new management and the new guy is revamping and refurbishing, and doing a good job of it too. R440 for the site for 4 of us, water and power on site, toilets spotless with plentiful hot water, toilet paper and soap supplied. Contact Yves [number removed]

Pic courtesy of Jacques

So from the beautiful oude molen campsite in Franschoek (at R320 per day for a site) we rest and catch our breathe after a torrid day yesterday. When we left St Helena, it was apparent that our deep freeze had lost a little gas and wasn't performing, so I topped it up, and as is my norm, i overcharged it a bit and then over time, reduce the pressure till it hits the sweet spot, it didn't occur to me at the time, but working from a small portable gas bottle, which is not normal, the bottle fell on its side, and i was pumping in liquid gas not gaseous gas, this resulted in a huge overcharge, stupid as all hell but, it is what it is. The end result of it all is the fridge had such high pressure in the discharge circuit, the compressor could no longer start. With the pressure gauge balls to the wall the gauge itself got damaged and the whole debacle resulted in some mis-diagnosis that had me running, first for spares i didn't need, then for technical assistance, which i obviously did need, which finally relieved the pressure, and my pain. We spent a fair bit of time in Tulbagh while waiting for the local fridge mechanic and whilst I fussed and fretted and lost my cool over the errant deep freeze, Charlotte did spend some time in the historical section of the town visiting the old church which was built in 1743 and the surrounding museums and earthquake remembrance centre. <This message was edited>

Earthquake remembrance center and ticket office

Beautifully maintained gardens and artifacts.

No travelling today, computer time and cooking time

Cape salmon and brinjal curry pot, lekker Saturday lunch

16 november no travelling again, uber into Franschoek to go and visit the monument and museums

Stunningly beautiful spot, quiet, isolated, the sea is the most incredible color, lighthouse overlooking the southern tip of Africa. Two days to scout about, but first a well deserved siesta

Hiding the truck from the wind at the Aghullas caravan park, its as exciting as an empty rugby pitch, R485 for two nights, electricity on site, shared tap, ablutions basic average, take your own paper

18 November, no travelling, visited the lighthouse and confluence of the two oceans, had a visit from old friends from Richards Bay, including a beer in the harbour and tour of the coastline down to Suid Strand

20 November 158km easy tar, St Aghullas - Bredasdorp - Swellendam - Grootvadersbos campsite.

The campsite cost R279 for the two of us for the site, ablutions clean and new with soap and paper, spectacular mountain views and most sites have a stunning deck with power, water, sink, table and benches, loungers, firepit, it really isa top notch place, kudos to Cape Nature

The last 15-20km are dirt road, bit corrugated but without issue. Very weak cellular signal on all networks and no wifi.

More pics to follow when we have better signal

Lovely views of mountains

First class deck well set out

And a pool, yet to be tested

I had to redeem myself with a new fish curry, the previous one we had an absolute travesty and the bag labelled garum masala was raw chillie powder, the fish curry tasted of overpoweringly of tomatoes and was so hot only i could eat it. The new edition made with a fresh 3kg yellow tail, was stunning and i am now forgiven

Other random shits from Charlotte's visit to the museums and churches of Swellendam

De Hoop campsite R550 per night less 10% for pensioners. Water and power at some sites, looks like 1 - 4 along the river. The campsites are shitty with no grass or place to hide from the wind, ablutions are miles away so people do their business in the bushes next to the campsites. The view overlooking the salt river lagoon is pretty nice with the air force's (elite holiday camp) missile testing ground across the river and stretching down to Arniston. Unlikely we would stay here again but with a major cycle race and marathon on in the area the more accessible campsites are chock a block full.

Crossing the breede river on malgas ferry/pont

Campsites dusty and no shelter from wind

View from the braai and firepit and looking down to the salt river mouth do make up for it

Handsome little chap come for a little birdseed treat

23 November De Hoop campsite - Witsand - Vermaaklikheid - Jongensfontein. 140km mostly gravel, last 30-40km quite chronically corrugated wouldn't recommend for cars with small wheels. Interesting trip, since early morning we saw Bontebok, Zebra, Red Duiker, Steenbok, Grysbok, Tortoises, Dassies, Mongoose, Blue Cranes, Grouse, Sacred Ibis and a plethora of other birds, and that is just on the side of the road through the farming area.

Booked into Jongensfontein campsite, R570 for two for two nights, power on site, odd shared tap scattered around, sites grassed and level and near the sea, very pleasant, ablutions clean and neat, take your own white gold. No braais on sites and no lapa or much shade to talk of, but definitely a come again spot

How my afternoon looks

Hartebeeshuisies in Vermaaklikheid

Shy tortoise, one of a dozen or more seen in the road

No updates for a few more days, we are still in Jongensfontein, a failing starter motor finally has done what all failing starter motors must so we will only get spares later today, then probably on Friday we will leave here and take the truck for its somewhat overdue oil service, then we will likely sleep at Gouritsmond and continue our journey northward <This message was edited>

Just for the record and for those who may worry, our new starter motor arrived yesterday and is in and we celebrated with a braai with the garden route motorhome club gathering here lastnight. Wrap up and close up the covers today, service tomorrow and then we will have time to deliver some quality material here again.

Breakfast at Jongensfontein

28 November Jongensfontein-Mosselbaai-Boggomsbaai-Gouritsmond, 144km little good gravel along the way but no problem. It has been a bit of a torrid week with our starter motor failing, pulled it out, gave it a smack, bench tested it and working fine, we put it all back, next day we went off to Riversdal to service the truck as kindly arranged by our friend Matthys, and when we arrived, the starter was kaput once more. Not wanting to cause problems for the service guys, and as we already had a new starter on order, we decided to return to Jongensfontein and service after the starter was installed. So the next day the unit arrived and after limping back to camp, it was easier to have the replacement done at the campsite. Kudos to Henry who did the job while i was running around with Matthys gassing up his new aircon. Friday back to Riversdal, also fixed a slow puncture that had been hassling us and picked up some supplies for our Springbok potjiekos we were going to make with a shoulder we got as a present, thanks once again Matthys who looked after us so well on our stay in his home town. <This message was edited>

Springbok potjiekos was absolute top notch.

Gourits mond, not much to say, caravan park is OK, 110 sites and about 5 vehicles here, R300 per night for the site with braais, tap and electricity on site. Clean and modern ablutions bring own white gold. The campsite is a little too far from the sea, but is quiet and lots of birds, but truly we are ready for something a bit more interesting now, the theme is soon to change and looking fwd to our upcoming Wilderness camp with our good friends Henk and Miems. <This message was edited>

This exceedingly pretty little stretch of water, is the first bridge over the Gourits river, it is places like this that drive me to take up fishing again, maybe next time i promised myself!

Gourits mouth-mosselbaai-Groot Brak 65km easy tar

Experiencing some trouble finding affordable campsites, i kid you not, up to R1500 per night, in a nutshell, screw that, so we returned to an old favourite, pine crest at Groot Brak who have not yet lost their minds and only begin this high season insanity after schools close. R1100 for three nights, as always, power, water, braais on site, most sites now have a paved slab and modern clean ablutions with adequate washing up space and chemical toilet dumps. Always a quiet peaceful spot to relax, we have a few small chores on the truck still to take care of, having bought some electrical spares in Mossel Bay along the way, and also some lovely seafood for the pot tonight, and for a paella at a later stage. <This message was edited>

Home for the next 3 nights

If a UK canal boat came putter putter past i wouldn't even batt an eyelid, well not immediately <This message was edited>

Some very innovative wall paintings in Groot Brak village

And to close off the day, prawns, calamari and chips, giving the deep fryer a big spanking tonight

Not to forget the home brew seafood mayo

No travelling today, started with a lovely spanish omelette for brunch, now back to my SQL scripting for our new campsite database

Another no travelling day, making a beef short rib and prune potjie while we have time on our hands, lovely in the sun watching the ducks and pigeons, the trouble starts when the bottle of red wine for braising is only half empty!! <This message was edited>

We have safely arrived in Wilderness at Ebb and Flow Campsite with absolutely no cellular reception, we will update again on Tuesday (hopefully) when we travel to Storms River mouth

When there is no driving let there be cooking

the red trail from ebb and flow north camp 150m climb, mostly straight up

view of the campsite from the top

many thanks to Henk for the pics

green tunnel in the foresst

splendid sunsets every evening

preparing Spanish omelets for brekkies

splendid little samples everywhere

some insect nest who knows what comes out here

Miems and Stehan, was lovely to meet up again and share this little chap for 5 days.

9 December Wilderness - Sedgefield - Storms River mouth, easy tar road doddle 150km, checked in at Sanparks Dolphin campsite, neatly mowed grass, power and braais at each campsite, shared taps close by, stunning view, we payed R1453 for a campsite for 3 nights without view but were able to convert for an extra R130 at checkin,, any closer to the sea you would be swimming

West coast crayfish and east coast sunrise

Embarrassing size but that is what they sell in the shops, 1kg, 20 x 50g tails

Today was a no travelling day, we walked to the Storms River mouth and Charlotte continued up to the bluff on the northern seaside. Very pretty, cape cobra, dassies hundreds of birds, quite a display

Critters and flowers abound

Welcome end to the days walk, weather was windy as all hell in the PM, neighbors tents flattened and some packed and left, tartarugas a rockin. Battling with deep freeze and starlink address change kept me out of trouble, tomorrow is better weather.

Someone said we are low maintenance campers, i don't think so!!!!!

Bloody fridge workshop in here

12 Dec Storms River mouth-PE-Addo national park-Addo village, Homestead campground. Easy tar except in the national park which is mostly equally easy gravel. Booked in to homestead campground, R420 per night for the site, power water and braais and a mix of concrete and grass stands. Very quiet and peaceful

More animal pics tomorrow, difficult as our cameras busted

Some pretty critters from the park

14 Dec 405 km Addo Queenstown Valschfontein campsite. Easy tar no problems

Booked into Valschfontein campsite, perfect little one night stopover nextvto the dam, R300 for the site, water and power on site, portable braais available. Friendly atmosphere, the lady of the house bakes lamb pies R100 a pop, big enough for a full meal for two, will see how they go.

Much warmer here, was getting a bit tired of hiding from the polar bears every night

Ok guys and girls we are close to home now, GPS gone on strike and i feel disinclined to climb on the roof. Sleeping in little rock resort Ladybrand tonight and in or near Clarens tomorrow, then i guess straight home, nothing much interesting happens between here and there so we will call it quits for now. Next trip will be soon, Drakensberg as soon as we get home and pick up the pieces.

Little rock resort is R365 per night for the site, power and water on site, enough communal braais, ablutions very basic but spotless and functional, service at reception is virtually non existent